## This interview was conducted in 2020.

After an internship at the 2-star restaurant KOKS in the Faroe Islands, he was quickly promoted to chef de partie. After a brief stop at the 3-star restaurant Maaemo in Oslo, Vadim returned to KOKS as sous chef. Because the Faroe Islands were too lonely for him in the long run, he returned home and then to Mexico. There, by a stroke of luck, he met the people from Noma – a 2-star restaurant in Copenhagen and, according to Vadim, "by far the best and most interesting restaurant in the world" – and was able to work for a few months in their pop-up restaurant in Tulum, Mexico. Back in Berlin, he opened his first own shop a year ago: otto in Prenzlauer Berg. Our author spoke to him about his work and sustainable cooking.

## Vadim, how would you describe your style?

## Vadim Otto Ursus

I want to cook the way I like to eat. Our dishes are always strongly flavored, and I work a lot with roasted flavors. Many of my techniques are relatively experimental—but ultimately, I want to achieve an achievable result that appeals not just to people who care a lot about food, but also to a broader audience.

## So not only gourmets are welcome at otto, but everyone?

## VOU

Otto is intended to be a communicative place where both guests and the people who work there feel very comfortable. We want to be informal and affordable. We don't have long tasting menus, but rather a small menu from which you can choose freely.

## You rely on regional products. Why is that so important to you?

## VOU

When I returned to Berlin after my time abroad, by a very lucky coincidence, I was given a small plot of land in the Schorfheide region with a bungalow on it. From there, I spent a lot of time outdoors, pickling and fermenting things, and applying the knowledge I'd acquired over the past few years to products in my area. During this time, the bungalow slowly transformed into a production kitchen.

I think it's simply logical to use things from the immediate area. When I'm in Berlin, there are products from Berlin and Brandenburg. But when I'm somewhere else, I get the things from there. When I travel, I want to eat regionally. The fact that everything is always available has led to an oversaturation in society. I want to convey to my guests what defines our region. Furthermore, I believe this is the only way to have truly close and positive contact with the people who produce our products. We work primarily with organic and Demeter farmers who live near the bungalow.

## How does sustainable cooking work?

## VOU

Firstly, by not shipping food all over the world. Sustainable cooking also means throwing away as little food as possible. For example, we have a bin that goes back to the farmers so that the leftovers can be used to feed the animals. We also try to consider how the leftovers could be used in every process. For example, we make miso paste from our bread scraps and stock from bones and fish scraps.

We maintain direct contact with producers and also purchase their surpluses. It's not about cherry-picking the best, but rather working with what's available. This also includes preserving food if it can't be processed immediately. We pickle and ferment a lot.

For me, sustainable cooking starts with the product selection. We mainly use game because it has to be shot anyway. A wild boar has eaten well its entire life and hasn't cost anyone much land, labor, or money. For me, this is the most sustainable way to eat meat.

## How often do you change your card?

## VOU

Our menu has a basic set of dishes that mostly remain relatively consistent. Only the side dishes or certain components change depending on the season. The rest of the menu changes every few weeks—as appropriate. If a product is no longer available, a new dish must be created.

## Are you more creative in the kitchen because you only cook with regional products?

## VOU

Definitely. I think that's also the reason why I really stick to using only locally sourced products. It encourages me to find alternatives that are just as fun. When we make cheese, for example, we have a lot of leftover whey, which we boil down. The end result is an incredibly exciting, acidic liquid that we can use instead of lemons.

## In which season is cooking the most fun?

## VOU

In spring, when the herbs are slowly sprouting, we go out once or twice a week and collect wild herbs and hundreds of flowers. You can really go all out.

## Now, unfortunately, winter is upon us. What's your favorite vegetable right now?

## VOU

What I enjoy most in winter is actually what I pickled in the summer. Fermented tomatoes and things like that. I also really like kale, beetroot, and sloe.