What design position do you pursue in your work?
Aimée Grünewald: Before my studies, I trained as both a women's tailor and a men's tailor, and I have strong roots in the craft. I place great value on high-quality workmanship and materials. I'm aware that there's a lot of clothing on our planet and we have a huge problem with overproduction and fast fashion. That's why it's important to me to create pieces that are valuable to their owners and therefore have a long lifespan. I enjoy working experimentally and trying to push the boundaries of fashion by, for example, focusing a lot on sizes: Can you produce items that fit all bodies, that can be adjusted, and that change with the body?
You designed loungewear for Otto Keller. What was important to you?
AG: Loungewear is a timeless piece of clothing – we wanted to reflect that in the design. Since loungewear is primarily worn in private, we had the idea of designing it so that both pieces can be combined or worn separately in everyday life – like chinos or a shirt. We opted for a very minimalist, classic cut: not tailored, very straight, and relatively wide. I think it's cool to make clothes that work for everyone, which is why our loungewear is unisex. The shirt has a turn-down collar with a small lapel and some very subtle topstitching at the hems. The pants have pockets and a topstitched slit, making them outdoor-friendly. For comfort, there's an elastic waistband instead of a button.
How did the design process go?
AG: When I start a new project, it immediately accompanies me in my everyday life. So, instead of sitting down and drawing, I think about it and talk with friends. This sets off a process of engaging with the topic within me, and suddenly I see things everywhere that could be part of loungewear, for example. Once the first design was complete, I made a prototype out of muslin fabric.
I know this myself: Sometimes you buy clothes and realize that the people behind them haven't really thought about what it means to wear the item. A good example are pockets in women's trousers. They're so small that a lighter or lipstick barely fits in. I think it's important to consider what you need in everyday life. How tight does the waistband need to be so that the trousers don't slide down when I put my phone in my pocket? The trousers for Otto Keller, for example, have a patch pocket on the back – it doesn't take up much space and still offers the possibility of taking something with you outside.
Which materials did you choose?
AG: Since this is a sustainable project, we chose cotton batiste. It's a very smooth cotton fabric with a relatively robust weave. Cotton has the advantage of being both comfortable and having good physiological properties: It's very soft, comfortable, and can absorb and release moisture. Personally, I prefer to wear cotton at home. The important thing is that the cut is wide enough. I think you need some room to move. Another plus point is the low maintenance. You can throw the cotton loungewear in the washing machine frequently without any problems. I think we made a pretty good selection of fabrics that serve both situations – indoors and outdoors – well.
What does sustainability in fashion mean to you?
AG: "Sustainability" is a dubious term because, in capitalism, it's often used to sell something. Morality always resonates in my work. Working conditions are extremely important to me. The people who make my clothes must be paid a fair wage. In my opinion, Otto Keller, for example, takes a sustainable approach by collaborating with young designers who are just starting their businesses. This means that the jobs aren't outsourced to large companies that may place less emphasis on ethics and sustainability.
You designed loungewear for Otto Keller. What was important to you?
Aimée Grünewald: Before my studies, I trained as both a women's tailor and a men's tailor, and I have strong roots in the craft. I place great value on high-quality workmanship and materials. I'm aware that there's a lot of clothing on our planet and we have a huge problem with overproduction and fast fashion. That's why it's important to me to create pieces that are valuable to their owners and therefore have a long lifespan. I enjoy working experimentally and trying to push the boundaries of fashion by, for example, focusing a lot on sizes: Can you produce items that fit all bodies, that can be adjusted, and that change with the body?