Health

Pars Pralines
Visiting Kristiane Kegelmann's chocolate factory

Text by Yannah Alfering
October 2021

"The Window of Modern Art" is written in large letters on the window of the small shop at Schönleinstraße 6 in Berlin, behind which lies Kristiane Kegelmann's chocolate factory "Pars." There, the trained master confectioner sells wild chocolate creations—beetroot, black garlic, pear and sesame—that look so beautiful you almost feel guilty about putting them in your mouth. And that's no coincidence: In 2015, the now 30-year-old moved to Berlin to devote herself to art. Since she was already familiar with chocolate as a material, Kegelmann decided to build small sculptures with it that evoke associations like "metallic" and "linear" instead of "creamy" and "delicious." "I wanted people to be surprised," she explains. Although it wasn't her goal to make money with the chocolates, after a few articles in 2016, the first companies contacted Kegelmann to purchase her chocolate objects for events. "I was a young artist at the time, and even though I had already developed my art, the chocolates were a good opportunity to earn some extra money," she says.

Five years later, Kristiane Kegelmann not only sells her products under the name "Pars" to large companies, but has also opened her first small shop in Berlin and an online shop. She places particular emphasis on sustainability, fair working conditions, and regional products—as much as possible when the main ingredient is cocoa beans. She sources her chocolate coating from the Berlin manufacturer Holger in't Feld, who sources the beans from small farms, including those in Peru, Honduras, and Madagascar. "It's incredible what Holger gets out of the beans," Kristiane Kegelmann enthuses. In industrially produced chocolate, the fruit and acidity are usually lost due to the addition of large amounts of sugar and also deliberate oxidation. "Almost everyone loves chocolate, but very few people really know cocoa. If we source five chocolate coatings, they all taste different. That's totally exciting." You can taste where the beans were grown, what grows in the same soil, and how they were fermented. But quality has its price. A kilo of chocolate coating costs the master confectioner 31 euros. By comparison, a high-quality catering chocolate costs eight euros. This is, of course, reflected in the selling price – something that needs to be explained to people. "If someone says they're not willing to pay our prices, that's fine with me," says the 30-year-old. "But a lot happens before the ingredients arrive. And we refine these products further at the end."

“Pars” mostly sources dairy products, vegetables, fruits, and flowers from the region. Unless Kristiane Kegelmann's in-laws bring Persian lemons from Iran. Just recently, she also designed pralines for a Berlin sake bar, for which she experimented with Japanese spices. Trust instead of dogmatism. “If I meet an Italian farmer who grows fantastic citrus fruits, I would use them too. But buying anonymously is a different matter,” says Kegelmann. Through her close collaboration with the farmers, she has learned a lot about her ingredients and gained enough inspiration to try combinations that seem unusual at first glance. One of them is “black garlic.” “When the garlic has been aged, the oniony taste disappears and its light sweetness develops,” she explains, as she cuts a praline into three pieces with a scalpel knife, pushes two of them over for tasting, and pops one into her mouth.

Kristiane Kegelmann recently started offering small tastings, where interested visitors can explore a specific type of chocolate in more detail while sipping a glass of kombucha or natural wine in a relaxed atmosphere. Her next step is to find a larger shop to continue pursuing her passion for gastronomy, explains Kristiane Kegelmann. And art? "It's not going anywhere," she says. "Everything in life has its time."

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